Lindsay Marsh, 22. Northumbria University
Your design background:
My second/third year at university included a year working in the industry, I worked for a swatch studio called Knit-1 in Brighton and then went on to work for a knitwear/womenswear design label called Rubecksen Yamanaka which has recently changed name to Cabinet. My placement year was the most important year for me at university, actually getting experience in the industry before graduating really helped to give me a much wider knowledge of garment construction, manufacture and yarns.
In my final year I won the Max Mara design prize and will be starting a five month apprenticeship in July working for the company in Reggio Emilia, Italy.
What was the concept behind your collection?
My collection was inspired by surrealist photographer Francesca Woodman and installation artist Doris Salcedo. I began by creating my won series of images which I took using myself and a chair. I used a slow shutter speed and moved quickly in and out of the frame, you could see the features of the chair through my body. I wanted the chair to appear to ‘contain’ the body and to challenge the function of clothes whilst the ghost like figure sat in the chair created a sense of the ‘uncanny’
Did you design your collection with a particular person in mind?
I did have an image of my muse in mind when I was designing because I think that it is really important to know your customer, who ever she/he is and at whatever market level. Its what fashion is really about, the person who wears your design and brings them to life.
What machines/techniques did you use for your collection?
For my whole collection I used a 10g industrial knitting machine. Using crepe viscose I created a stitch using double bed with floats inbetween then natural tendencies of the viscose to hold its shape created an optical illusion effect and looked like fine pleating. I combined this with a technique which looks similar to intarsia but was knitted on the fine gauge machine using plating. I also challenged myself throughout my collection to remove unnecessary seam by hooking on and knitting sections of garments in tubular.
Where do you get inspiration from?
Travelling, reading, collecting, photographing, experimenting, knitting!
What made you pursue knitwear?
I was attracted to the freedom and challenge of creating my own fabric, and soon realised the most exciting element is that there are no rules in creating knitwear.
Why did you choose to go to Northumbria University?
I think it was because of the industrial placement year, I knew the importance of practical experience and how much I would learn working in the industry.
What do you think of your course at Northumbria?
It was a good course for my as it allowed me to work independently and with complete creative freedom. The knitwear department is very small with at the most five-ten students per year group. However I found that this was a positive as I spent most of my time with students from other pathways such as womenswear and menswear, learning skills in pattern cutting and sewing along side my specialism. I think this is really important for pushing knitwear forward, combining skills form different elements of fashion.
Which was the most difficult garment to make out of your collection?
I made two black viscose dresses which were similar in difficulty. The fit of each dress was worked into the movement of the ‘pleats’ which created shadows across the body. I was having to fashion a lot! It was also a very unpredictable yarn to work with.
Which piece out of your collection took the longest to make?
I think the most time consuming garment was a coat I made form felting a fine merino which I plated with viscose. It took a lot of time to create enough fabric to make the garment and its lining was based on a traditional tailored buggy lining, but knitted.
What have your highest and lowest point been during your degree?
Highest- winning the Max Mara award and showing at Graduate Fashion Week.
Lowest- Purple dye (from waste yarn) running onto a pale grey cashmere garment! I was devastated at first by managed to get it out with a colour run remover.
What are your plans for your career after graduation?
Well I’m really looking forward to working with Max Mara, I’m sure it is going to be a fantastic experience and I’m so grateful for the opportunity they have given me.
What advice would you give to students going into their final year?
Trust your own judgement and enjoy it!
Where do you see yourself in 5 years time?
I think after gaining valuable experience in the industry I would like to study and MA in London and in the future run my own knitwear label.
Can we buy pieces from your collection?
At the moment my collection an be bought directly from me, my contact details are: l.marsh@live.co.uk
Images from Lindsay Marsh. To see catwalk images go here: http://www.catwalking.com/GRADUATES/GRAD_09/BA_shows/shows/Northumbria/shows/25-Lindsay%20Marsh/index.html
1 Comment
June 24, 2009 at 12:02 pm
I really like your collects. Very unique. It’s always fun to see someone using their creativity in knitting.