Naomi Barber- Rodgers

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Naomi Barber- Rodgers, 23. Nottingham Trent, fashion knitwear

Design background:
I studied fashion design on my art foundation level, and then went onto university and did two years  and completed a year in the industry as a junior designer/ assistant at Alexon international where I designed garments and saw the whole design process from sketch to them actually being in the seasonal collection on the shop floor which was an amazing experience.

What was the concept behind your collection? 
Collection title: Acromatic interrupted:  My concept was inspired from a technique in photography called selective colouring- black and white photography interrupted with intense colour…
Having taken photographs of subjects in there natural habitats I extracted the colour to create monochromatic images. Once manipulated the colour that I have highlighted appears vivid and concentrated against the monochromatic backdrop. After projecting my photography onto the body I used light as a gauge for transparency so looked at different transparencies and opacity’s.My colour palette was inspired by all the different tones of grey and then intense, vivid colours effectively interrupted the grey palette.

What type of machines or techniques did you use for your collection?
 I wanted to create knitwear there was innovative and not the usual so using a fibre called colourific which is transparent I knit on the dubied knit machine transparent panels along with blocks of fine gauge merino and floating silk stripes- all knitted on the fine gauge dubied machines (gauges 10, 12 and 14).To finish each garment precisely and cleanly I trimmed every edge with either sandwich trims or small rib trims.  For construction I used the overlockers and the linkers.

What made you persue knitwear?
Knitwear appealed to me because it is such a specialism, not many people can say that they have not only constructed the garment but have actually made the fabric from a cone of yarn. Its very satisfying seeing the final product as you have designed, selected the yarn and finally knitted it.

Why did you choose to go to Nottingham Trent University?
 I chose Nottingham Trent because it is one of the few courses that specialises in knitwear and has such a good continuous reputation.

What did you think of the course?
The course is very thorough form the first year all the way through to the fourth I have learnt a lot each year and think that the industry year is essential now I look back it gives you a real insight to the fashion world.

What garment was the most difficult to make?
All my garments are very delicate because of the nature of the transparent panels but I would have to say the hardest was the leotards, getting the fit right and the stretch.

What garment took you the longest to make?
The dress with the strapping detail on the front and back took the longest to make, overlaying the colourific panels onto the shoulders then trapping it all in with this strapping was very tedious and took a lot of patience.

What have your highest and lowest points been during your degree?
My high point of my degree was being selected to go to graduate fashion week, it was such an amazing opportunity to get my work exhibited in this way.

What are you’re plans for your career after graduation?
After graduation I plan to get a job as soon as possible. I really would like to carry on with designing as that is my passion. I would love to get a job that involved travelling to different countries.

What advice would you give to students going into their final year?
Persevere when it comes to your collection, its a very intense period of time and sometimes you cant imagine that it is all going to get done, but it is achievable and its worth all the stress and graft when you see your garments coming down the catwalk.

What designer would you most like to work for?
I would love to work for Louise Goldin, her collections are always innovative and unexpected.

Describe your design signature in 3 words: 
Innovative, thematic, experimental

Where do you see yourself in five years time?
In five years time I would love to be designing and using my learnt knowledge in the industry.

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Filed under Nottingham Trent, Stripes, Transparency

Tags: knitwear, knitwear graduate, Naomi Barber-Rodgers, Nottingham Trent